This down to earth, working class Kowloon neighborhood is known for its markets, but the past few years have seen trendy cafes and art projects popping up among its bustling streets.
More from our neighborhood guide series.
This slice of ancient history sits right next to the Lei Cheng Uk housing estate on Tonkin Street. The bricks, calligraphy, and items found within the tomb point to it being built for a local soldier during the Eastern Han or Southern Dynasty periods (or: somewhere between AD 25-220 or AD 420-589). Along with the cross-shaped, brick tomb chamber, there’s also an exhibition gallery that charts the tomb’s excavation in the 1950s and explains the artifacts.
41 Tonkin Street, Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Thursdays (except public holidays).
Opened by two local coffee enthusiasts in 2014, this quirky little cafe sources a wide variety of coffee beans from all across the globe. In addition to ordering your flat white (or other coffee drinks from their espresso and filtered coffee menus), you can also stock up on beans, drip bags, brewing equipment and other accessories. The coffee is complemented with some delicious breakfast eats, and the cosy setting away from the busier areas of the district — the wooden furniture, knick-knacks and bikes hanging on the wall will make you feel like you’re hanging out in someone’s living room — make this an ideal spot for a leisurely chat or for poring over a book.
135 Lai Chi Kok Road, Sham Shui Po, 2363-3661. Open Monday to Friday, 11am to 6pm and Saturday to Sunday, 9am to 6pm.
This modest grab-‘n’-go counter has a simple menu of burgers, fries, salads and sides at affordable prices, but the food it serves is prepared to perfection. Popular picks include the Wagyu burger with Japanese bean sprouts, fried onions and sesame sauce and the Danish blue cheeseburger with bacon and red onions. If you’re feeling adventurous, there’s also the soft shell crab burger and the massive trucker burger. Watch out for the seasonal offerings, too. There are a few seats available, but this isn’t the sort of joint where you’ll want to linger. A set meal will net you a burger, fries or a salad, and a soft drink.
65-71 Yen Chow Street, Sham Shui Po, 2361-1330. Open Sunday to Monday, 11am-10pm.
Soak up some art at the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre (JCCAC)
Housed in the former Shek Kip Mei Factory Estate, the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre (JCCAC) is now an arts village where around 140 artists and art organizations create their work. While studios and offices are private, visitors can wander the nine-story complex freely, peeking into the craft shops and having a drink at the cafe. Performances are put on in the Black Box Theatre in the basement, and the center also has a year-round program of events, from rooftop film screenings and public tours to circus shows and its annual handicrafts fair.
30 Pak Tin Street, Sham Shui Po / Shek Kip Mei, 2353-1311. Open daily from 10am-10pm.
Gawk at Man Fung Building
What used to be a typical nondescript residential high-rise was transformed into a striking piece of art last year during art non-profit HK Walls’ street art festival. Madrid-based artist Okuda San Miguel completely covered the facade of the building with his geometric mural “Rainbow Thief”, a bright, multi-colored 3D fox.
180 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po.
Sham Shui Po is perhaps best known for its countless winding streets of market stalls and shops selling everything from gadgets to kids’ toys. Apliu Street, with its array of electronics, secondhand goods and other tchotchke, is in many ways the district’s hub, and always worth a visit for its flea market vibe. If it’s tech you’re after, visit the Golden Computer Arcade, where you’ll find laptops, gaming consoles, cameras and more at competitive prices.
Apliu Street and Ki Lung Street, Sham Shui Po. Golden Computer Arcade, 146-152 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, 2729 2101. Open daily 10am to 10pm.
Sham Shui Po is smack dab in the center of Kowloon, meaning neighboring districts like Prince Edward and shopping mecca Mong Kok are only a quick one or two MTR stops away.