Balinese at the Beach: Le Comptoir group has set its eyes firmly on The Pulse, with modern Balinese number TRi taking up a snazzy third floor space — a few levels above the group’s American establishment, Hotshot.

Look & Feel: The Balinese influence is ubiquitous, with ceilings and private booth seats made from bamboo elements. The colors are earthy in an Ubud-zen kinda way. The space feels intimate and expansive all at once.

Meet the Chefs: Chefs Conor Beach and Mustika Wayan are at the helm.

On the Menu: TRi is nominally a Balinese restaurant, but you won’t be getting streetside babi guling here. Instead, we’re talking impeccably styled iga sapi (beef ribs), duck betutu (roasted duck), and tons of seafood seasoned with Indonesian ingredients like coconut, palm sugar and tamarind.

Service: The staff are generally attentive, even if you do get assigned to an isolated pod at the back of the room.

Jeng: The ambience is hard to beat, and the dishes are extremely delectable, if not traditional. We recommend the finger-lickin’ iga sapi short ribs ($320) and the flavorful grilled jamur squid ($190)  in particular.

Not So Jeng: The pods are a good idea in theory, but you’ll be glad to get off those awkwardly arranged padded seats by the end of the meal.

Great for: A posh après-beach session, a special date, an intimate catchup.

What else?: TRi (don’t ask us about the weird capitalizations) is named after the Balinese philosophical phrase Tri Hita Karana, meaning the “three phases of well-being”—which, frankly, is nothing you’ll be worrying about while chomping down on your grilled squid.