Same Game, New Court: Chef Calvin Choi of the InterContinental’s acclaimed STEAK HOUSE winebar + grill recently traded for a new kitchen at The Steak Room of FWD House 1881 following the shuttering of the five-star hotel for refurbishments. He and his dedicated kitchen crew from the InterContinental aim to recreate the premium carnivore paradise that was their former restaurant’s claim to fame. Featuring premium meats from around the world, a specialty of The Steak Room is the chocolate-fed, full-blood Wagyu hailing from South Australian ranch Mayura Station.

Look & Feel: Nestled under the rustic wood beams of the former Marine Police Headquarters, The Steak Room exudes cosy elegance. The main dining room caters to 30 diners while those looking for more natural lighting can opt for the corridor, which seats 16 guests. There’s even an alfresco area for intimate gatherings during cooler months.

On the Menu: The prawn cocktail ($328) makes for a refreshing starter with six jumbo succulent prawns stacked in a classic Champagne glass. We are not huge fans of raw beef, but the USDA beef steak tartare ($288) manages to impress with its clean, velvety texture. The Boston lobster bisque ($376) packs plenty of umami flavour, although, for the price, we would have expected a more generous offering of lobster meat. The headliner Mayura steak ($1488 for 12 ounces) is juicy although not as decadently marbled as traditional Wagyu from Japan. Adorned with beautiful grill marks, the Iberico chops ($628) are a tad dry and chewy, making the dish rather forgettable. Perfectly seared foie gras can be added for more silky richness, at a splurge of $108 for 50 grams.  The intensely aromatic chocolate soufflé ($258) is light yet delightfully satisfying, so we definitely suggest this to wrap up the meal.

Jeng: Classic steakhouse favourites in an old-school environment.

Not So Jeng: A meal here will cost you a pretty penny or two.

Meet the Chef: Chef Calvin Choi definitely keeps busy operating the kitchens of ODEA as well as The Steak Room at FWB House 1881. He comes from a pedigreed fine dining background having worked at 2-Michelin star Spoon by Alain Ducasse as sous chef before moving on to STEAK HOUSE winebar + grill at the InterContinental.

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This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop HK doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.