Smokin’ Ribs: As part of its inevitable path to full “gentrification,” Kennedy Town is now diversifying from pubs and generic western restaurants to more genre-specific joints. Enter The Ribcage, hawking — you guessed it — ribs: racks and racks of them.

Look & Feel: This tiny fast food setup is minimalistic, with blackboard menus on Tadao Ando-esque gray walls, and an ordering counter with a shelf of booze above. Choose from a handful of bar stools if you want to dine in.

On the Menu: The ribs here are hickory and applewood-smoked for four hours, and you can choose from full- ($248) or half-racks ($148) of American baby back pork, or a full rack of Canadian beef ($298). A small selection of sides and beers round out the menu.

Service: The staff are well trained and the orders come through quickly.

Jeng: The baby back full rack is juicy and tender, and the meat falls off the bone relatively easily. The ribs come topped with a tangy, tomato-y homemade barbecue sauce, and the subtle smoky flavors from the wood chips come through. The beef fat fries ($38) with decorative paprika seasoning are an addictive, savory complement.

Not So Jeng: We know that topping the full rack in sauce is a feature of American-style ribs in general, but towards the end of our chowdown, the sauce starts to overpower the actual star of the show.

FYI: Vegetarians can take solace in the coleslaw sides.

This writeup was based on an independent tasting. The Loop doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.