French Revolution: Fine dining need not be stuffy, intimidating, or cost an arm and a leg. Case in point? Seasons by Olivier Elzer, which opened in 2014. A sophisticated yet laid-back bar and restaurant, it serves contemporary French classics with a hint of Asian flair.

Look & Feel: Taking up 8,000 square feet at Lee Gardens, Seasons has an alfresco space that feels very much like an oasis in the midst of Causeway Bay. Indoors, you’ll find an intimate space inspired by spring, dubbed the Green House; a main dining section, where the interiors represent fall; plus two private rooms that are decked out in the darker colors of winter.

Meet the Chef: Owner and head chef Olivier Elzer has some serious credentials, having honed his craft at Pierre and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon before opening up his own venture in 2014. Culinary talent runs in the family: Elzer’s grandfather was a chef for the Tsar of Russia.

On the Menu: From light bites to hearty seafood and charcoal-grilled or roast meats, Seasons has a little bit of something for everyone. Try dainty, immaculately presented appetizers, like grilled tuna with five spices avocado crush and crispy shallot and red prawn carpaccio with pink radish, tomatoes and tamarillo ice cream — these savory, flavoursome bites make for perfect starters — then go to town on the mains, which are great for sharing. An extensive list of French wines and bubblies also await.

Service: As you’d expect from a restaurant of this caliber, service is impeccable. 

Jeng: Each dish is imaginatively presented with unexpected ingredients — take the abalone served in a shell , where the briny flavors of the sea creature are balanced out with the addition of sauerkraut and horseradish foam; and wasabi veal head, crispy kale cabbage and sauteed artichoke, where the unconventional take on east-meets-west flavors. The meaty mains are crowd pleasers that should satisfy any carnivore: the wagyu beef tenderloin rossini with crispy potato and black truffle sauce is juicy and tender; the grilled rib-eye shallots confit and red white sauce is well-seasoned.

Not So Jeng: While the mains have heaping portions, some of the starter dishes are on the small size.

Great For: An informal fine-dine experience; after-work drinks and nibbles on the terrace.

FYI: Seasons has a popular afternoon tea every day of the week, featuring classics like croque-monsieur and homemade scones as well as inspired creations like duck foie gras cream egg.

This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.