Roaring 20s: Prohibition Grill House & Cocktail Bar is one of four restaurants in the recently opened Hong Kong Ocean Park Marriott Hotel, serving up elevated American cuisine and cocktails in a speakeasy-inspired setting.

Look & Feel: Rich burgundy chairs in velvet and leather, hanging chandeliers, and exposed brickwork grant a sense of old-school sophistication. The center of the dining room opens onto a live kitchen, where diners can observe meat dishes being prepared on charcoal grills and spit roast stations. Two private rooms are available, too.

On the Menu: Meat and seafood dishes comprise the majority of Prohibition’s menu, which is divvied up into appetizers, mains, and desserts. Think New York-style pastrami sandwiches ($218), USDA prime bone-in rib-eye steak (dry-aged for 28 days with bourbon and oolong tea, natch, $1,988), scallop ceviche ($188) and crab cake ($248). Classic cocktails are given contemporary twists and served up with great pizzazz; the In the Dark Martini ($148), for instance, comes with peat smoke at the edge of the glass. An extensive wine list rounds out the drinks menu.

Jeng: The Lump Crab Cake ($248) is a succulent dish jazzed up with yuzu and cod roe tartar sauce, while the charcoal-grilled steaks are must-tries. (Ask your server for the specials.) Meanwhile, the generous and elegant interiors make you feel as though you’re transported away from Hong Kong right into a 1920s speakeasy. Service is prompt and attentive.

Not So Jeng: Prohibition is a place to end the night, not start it; as glam as the restaurant itself is, the closest nearby destinations are Ocean Park and Wong Chuk Hang, not exactly locations with a happening nightlife. Best to either retire early for the evening or enjoy after dinner drinks elsewhere in the hotel.

Meet the Chef: Executive chef Jason R. Loyd knows all there is to know about meat. Hailing from the US and trained at The Culinary Institute of America, Loyd is the mastermind behind the restaurant’s approach to cooking, which makes use of all-American techniques such as charcoal grilling and rotisserie.

Great For: A dressy affair with even dressier cocktails.

FYI: Try the three-course set lunch available from 11:30am to 2pm every day.

Check out Hong Kong’s newest restaurants and bars here.

This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop HK doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.