Brand New Location: The much-loved Palco has dazzled Hong Kong diners with its unique brand of refined, modern Italian cuisine for the past 10 years and now trades in its old Wan Chai address for a swanky waterfront venue in Ocean Terminal. In partnership with LUBUDS F&B Group, the revamped restaurant features both tasting menus and a la carte options, including signatures from its Wan Chai location.

Look & Feel: Still under the helm of renowned Chef Ken Lau, the gorgeous new space offers sweeping, panoramic views over Victoria Harbour with a large verandah seating area perfect for al fresco dining and drinks. Soft muted gray tones and brushed gold accents set the stage at this fine dining establishment, alongside a long bar and two private dining rooms for more intimate affairs.

On the Menu: Almost too pretty to eat, the squid-ink crispy chip ($188) is loaded with fresh, creamy sea urchin blanketed under a thin sheet of pork fat. The burrata salad ($238) is a two-part delight headlined by a creamy globe of cheese glazed in a tomato consommé shell accompanied by pesto, alongside a green salad dressed in honey dressing. The stone clam ($168), dressed with trout roe and garlic foam, pops with buttery sweetness while the lobster salad ($598) features an entire lobster poached in chicken stock to bouncy perfection. A highlight of our meal is the ruby beetroot pasta ($298) drenched in creamy gorgonzola sauce. Even the most carnivorous of diners would yearn for this indulgent vegetarian dish. A signature dish, the spaghetti with 24-month Parmesan ($398), prepared inside a wheel of cheese for extra cheesy decadence, is sinfully addictive, especially topped with fresh black truffles for an extra $300. We cap off our meal with a deconstructed tiramisu ($138) with Baileys ice cream that is airy and much lighter than the traditional variety.

Jeng: The panoramic view of the harbor alongside refined Italian cuisine makes this the perfect spot for entertaining. The dishes we tried are a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds.

Not So Jeng: The price tag is quite steep, although the lunch menu for three courses at $398 offers the same calibre of cuisine and is easier on the wallet.

Meet the Chef: Chef Ken Lau was inspired by his grandmother, who was a chef. His career in fine dining spans 26 years, starting with the Peninsula Hotel group where he tenured at the Verandah, Chesa, Felix, and Gaddi’s, before owning and operating his first restaurant, Mia Trattoria. He then opened the original Palco in Chai Wan in 2010, before moving the restaurant to Wan Chai and subsequently, its newest location in Ocean Terminal. He is also the executive chef of PANO, a fine dining restaurant that recently opened in West Kowloon Cultural District.

Great For: A culinary treat with a great view.

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This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop HK doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.