Southern Steakhouse: Tucked away at the lavish Rosewood hotel, HENRY is a sophisticated take on a traditional steakhouse from the American South.

Look & Feel: HENRY is essentially a gentlemen’s club masquerading as a steakhouse. Developed by New York’s Parts and Labor Design, interiors are rendered in dark woods, dim lighting, and polished brass hardware. Wooden tables feature geometric inlays and are surrounding by plush seating. The main dining room is decked out with booth seating with red leather banquettes that offers a semblance of privacy for groups. Adding to the atmosphere, guests can watch chefs at work through postcard windows in the kitchen, and see bartenders whip up their cocktails at the marble-topped bar. Perhaps the most surprising aspect, though, is just how spacious the restuarant is – for Hong Kong, it’s positively huge.

On the Menu: This is a steakhouse, so of course, meat is the focus at Henry. And boy, what meat it is. Only the best premium cuts are used here, and it shows in each dish’s rich flavors. For starters, the Cold Smoked Steak Tartare is a sublime prelude to the rest of the meat to come, while the Crab Louie is a well-concieved salad with Oyster Louie Sauce as the star.

If you’re going to the go the whole hog – and have a few people to share with – you’ll want to order HENRY’S Mixed Grill. The hefty platter comes loaded with all types of cuts, from Elysian Fields Lamb Chops and Brandt Bone-in Ribeye to Beckerland Pork Chops, Seven Pepper Brisket, Butchers Shop Sausage, and even some house-cured bacon. If this doesn’t sate your appetite for animal flesh, nothing will. The only caveat is that some cuts had a little too much marbling, which detracted from the meat itself. We also tried the 44 Farms Bone-in Ribeye (90 days aged in Woodford Reserve Bourbon & Ash) and the Brandt Tomahawk, both of which were tender, perfectly cooked, and flavorsome. Of course, they also paired well with the home-brand hot sauce and Bloody Mary ketchup.

The team has made some bold choices with the sides, but surprisingly, they all worked quite well. Who knew that pigs trotters and Madeira could come together to make the perfect gravy for mashed potatoes? Or that corn could be charred and tossed with Harissa and Parmesan to create a simple dish that bursts with flavor? Well, now you do. Order both to get flavors and textures that cut through the heaviness of the meat.

We finished the meal with no less than three dessert. The Chocolate Fondant is a decadent treat, albeit one so rich that you couldn’t have more than a couple bites. However, the Baked Alaska is so heavily soaked in alcohol that you almost couldn’t taste anything else. The Rotisserie Pineapple though, is surprisingly piquant – though again, a couple bites will suffice.

Very appropriately, Henry offers a long drinks menu with a list of signature cocktails that plays to its Southern Roots. The Old Fashioned is delightful – the whisky fits well into this setting. Additionally, we tried a festive cocktail called Vixen, which pairs mulled wine with Prosecco and tastes like Christmas. There’s a great wine selection, too, and as a fun treat, it can be served by the glass from magnum bottles.

Jeng: This is a steakhouse, so you’d hope that they do meat very well. Luckily, they do. It’s also an elegant, sophisticated setting that could be appropriate for almost any social situation.

Not So Jeng: If there is anything to fault here, it would probably be the desserts. The Baked Alaska is a bit of a hot mess (literally – it’s set on fire at your table), while the other two are just a bit too much after the more subtle flavors of the rest of the meal. Also, to get to Henry, you have to walk through another restaurant – Bayfare Social. It can be a little confusing because there are no signs around.

Meet the Chef: Nathan Green cut his Hong Kong teeth at Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships and Ham & Sherry before moving onto Rhoda, his restaurant that focused on nose-to-tail cooking and live-fire grilling.

Great For: Celebrating big business deals, dinner with the lads, or big-group catchups.

FYI: Henry has a well-sized private room that, while closed off from the rest of the restaurant, doesn’t feel totally cut away from the action. There’s also an alfresco terrace that’s perfect for sipping wines and smoking cigars.

Check out Hong Kong’s newest restaurants and bars here.

This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop HK doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.