Fire It Up: Taking over the prime waterfront position formerly occupied by Gordon Ramsay’s Maze Grill, Harbourside Grill has quickly swooped in to capitalize on this unparalleled spot and Hong Kong’s hungry diners.
Look & Feel: Because of the super-quick turnaround, the design and atmosphere of Harbourside restaurant is pretty similar to the restaurant that was previously here. Guests begin by walking past an extensive (and well-stocked) bar, moving into the main dining room that’s decked out with plenty of wood, red leather banquettes, parquet floors. The pièce-de-résistance, though, are the floor-to-ceiling windows that offer unfettered panoramas across Victoria Harbour; by night, this is hands down the best view in town.
On the Menu: As the name suggests, Harbourside Grill features generous lashings of meat on its menu, but there’s plenty to enjoy if you’re not a carnivore. We kicked things off with the Yorkshire asparagus with Colman’s mustard, shallot dressing, and cured eggs; and the seared scallops with pork belly, curried cauliflower purée, capers, and golden raisins. Both dishes were simple and well presented, and a good way to whet the appetite.
Next up was the much-anticipated steak tartare, made tableside from Australian beef and served with grilled sourdough. It was certainly a spectator sport – all of us had our cameras trained on the table the tartare was being prepared on – and the advantage of this personalized service is that you can get the flavorings exactly as your group wants it.
Meats are, of course, the star of the show here, so we sampled two types of steaks and Australian rack of lamb. The steaks were premium crosses – Black Angus and Duroc, and Wagyu and Black Angus – and (as one would hope at a grill restaurant) perfectly cooked. The earthy jalapeño-spiced mashed potato and homemade sauces (béarnaise, bordelaise, and five peppercorns) were the perfect complements.
Overall, the meal was a solid symphony of textures and flavors, well set off by friendly, attentive service. But, if there’s only one reason you go here, it better be for the tarte tartin. The generously-sized upside-down apple tart is more than enough for two, and because it’s served with crème fraiche it’s well balanced and not sickly sweet.
Meet the Chef: A new addition to Hong Kong’s culinary scene, Armand Sablon trained with Marc Haeberlin at the Auberge de l’Ill in Eastern France before spending 20 years honing his skills at popular London hotspots Orrery Restaurant, Galvin at Windows, Ten Room, and Ambassade de l’Ile.
Great For: Dessert catch-ups and casual dinners with friends.
FYI: There’s a positively huge alfresco terrace here that makes the perfect place to enjoy sundowners.
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