Meat Market: A fresh import courtesy of London, Gaucho takes its meat seriously. First and foremost, the chic space is dedicated to free-range Argentinian steaks.

Look & Feel: With mirrored walls, dim lights, metallic accents and cowhide chairs, Gaucho feels more like a nightclub than a restaurant. But that snazzy lounge look is precisely what they’re going for and, for better or worse, leaves a strong impression.

On the Menu: Dinner kicks off with a platter of raw beef brought to your table, as the server explains each cut and preparation. The two dozen or so options are carefully listed in the menu, and it is nearly impossible to choose. Indecisive? Go with a tasting plate in order to sample the best cuts. The menu may be mainly meat, but that’s not all that’s on there. The ceviches are fresh, zippy and some of the best we’ve had in Hong Kong. There are also a few other Argentine touches, such as empanadas, chorizo and lomo a la milanesa.

Service: Excellent—even on busy nights, you’ll feel well looked after. Most of the servers can speak fluently about the menu, as well as what wines or cocktails will pair best.

Jeng: Lean-cut enthusiasts will drool over the filet mignon medallions, which have been stewing in a delicious garlic, parsley and olive oil marinade for 48 hours. If you’re craving something a little fattier, go for the delicately marbled tira de ancho ribeye, which is slow-grilled with chimichurri. We also love the tuna ceviche: a little sweet and salty thanks to the orange bits and soy sauce. If you’re a fan of Malbec, this is the place to be. Ask about the extensive bottles or by-the-glass pours.

Not So Jeng: Maybe we’re just in denial but all the cowhide rubs us the wrong way. Do we really need to be reminded that we’re eating some poor old cow? The music is about 10 decibels too loud, so good luck carrying on a conversation.

Great For: Splurges, date nights, business lunch.

FYI: You can try out Gaucho with an ever-so-slightly friendlier price tag at lunchtime when the business lunch sets cost about $270.

This writeup was based on an independent tasting. The Loop doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.