Shibuya Cool: Late-night, modern izakaya Fukuro opens on too-cool-for-school Elgin Street, serving up innovative Japanese dishes and marking Black Sheep Restaurants’ 18th establishment in the city.

Look & Feel: Designed by creative agency A Touch of Substance, who’re also behind standout interiors such as Bibo and The Fleming, the pared-back Fukuro presents a cool, updated spin on traditional Japanese wooden spaces. A nondescript black-and-gold entrance calls to mind exclusive speakeasies.

On the Menu: When coming up with Fukuro’s concept, co-founders Syed Asim Hussain and Chris Mark were inspired by the quintessential izakaya — especially those in Shibuya, Tokyo — where office workers converged in the evenings over drinks and shared plates. Hence the focus on classic izakaya-style dishes such as sashimi, agedashi tofu, beef sukiyaki and noodles. The dishes are all granted an innovative twist, however, from the salmon on the sashimi platter being cured in sakura flower to plum mayonnaise served alongside the chicken karaage. A drinks menu focused around sakes and Japanese whiskies complements the food; try one of their whisky highballs.

Jeng: You can’t go wrong with the sweetness and crunch of the crispy caramel butter corn ($68); the yuzu-pickled seasonal vegetables are crisp and refreshing ($58); and the yaki udon, served with snow crab ($178), is smooth and indulgent without being overly rich. The flavor of monaka ice cream sandwich ($48) we tried was a savory, almost tea-like seaweed flavor complimented by sweet sakura jam — a pleasant surprise to end the meal.

Not So Jeng: The restaurant’s diminutive size might be charming, but that and its no reservation policy means grabbing a spot — especially on the weekends, when Soho and LKF are buzzing with club-goers — might be a hit-or-miss sort of endeavor. Groups larger than four might find themselves split up across tables.

Meet the Chef: Chef Shun Sato worked in the kitchens of Chinese fusion restaurant Ho Lee Fook and French fine dine Belon before taking the helm at Fukuro.

FYI: Fukuro doesn’t accept reservations — except if you’re booking its table that accommodates up to 12 people.

Check out Hong Kong’s newest restaurants and bars here.

This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop HK doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.