Dim Sum and Then Some: Looks like “modern Chinese” is more than just a trend — it’s developed into a cuisine in its own right, and one that’s here to stay. Dim Sum Library, the newest venture from the Aqua Group, offers contemporary Chinese food in a posh, 1920s-inspired setting. Expect dim sum classics with a twist, paired with an inspired cocktail menu.

Look & Feel: Despite being slap-bang in the middle of a mall, Dim Sum Library holds its own with an inviting, classy setting that pays homage to Chinese art deco interiors popular in the early 20th Century. Instead of strip lighting and pushcarts, here it’s all dim lighting and waiters speaking in hushed tones. Stepping into the restaurant, you’ll find a Chinoiserie-style cocktail bar and a mural featuring peacocks. Behind the large dining space, there’s even a mahjong parlor hidden at the back.

Meet the Chef: Chef Leung Kok-wah previously held roles at notable Chinese restaurants, including Man Wah at the Mandarin Oriental.

On the Menu: The dim sum offerings take things to the next level, with fancy ingredients aplenty. Think black truffle har gow ($42/three), seared foie gras with osmanthus-smoked coddled eggs ($78), and port-raised US oysters with leeks on a hot plate ($268). Many of the cocktails use jasmine tea as a key ingredient: the One Thousand Years of Song ($85), for example, consists of the tea with Tanqueray Gin and chilled Chinese peach puree.

Service: Discreet and attentive, the waitstaff are friendly and very quick.

Jeng: The dan dan xiaolongbao ($42/three pieces) is a crowd favorite. It’s an unusual take on the dim sum classic, bursting with spicy mala flavors. The crispy eggplant tossed with salted fish and Chinese chives ($68) comes with a pretty cool presentation. It’s stacked like a Jenga pile, the inspiration of which chef says comes from playtime with his kids.

Not So Jeng: We love spring rolls and uni, but perhaps not together. The spring roll made with Hokkaido king crab ($88/three) has plenty of flavors on its own, obscuring the distinct taste of uni — which defeats the whole purpose of it being there.

Great For: Group outings and dim sum in the evenings.

FYI: The mahjong parlor is open in the afternoons — you can play while sipping a cocktail or glass of bubbly.

This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.