Southern Smoked Meats: CRFT PIT (vowels are overrated) is a North American smoked meat specialist based in Ap Lei Chau, functioning originally as a wholesaler and private kitchen but recently venturing into the retail space with its own online shop.

Look & Feel: Located on the third floor of a generic industrial building, CRFT PIT fits somewhere in between Southside-style private kitchen and casual canteen. The kitchen easily takes up more than half of the indoor space: a testament to how seriously they treat the food here. The industrial-grade rotisserie smoker might not be the prettiest thing in the room — but it certainly is the most important. There’s also a generous balcony for outdoor dining.

On the Menu: CRFT PIT is open weeknights for dinner, and there are three set menus (starting $777 per head) to choose from. No matter which one you go with, Southern-style smoked and grilled meats will be the highlight — whether’s it’s hickory-smoked and hand-pulled pork, Memphis dry-rub baby back ribs or Texas-style brisket. They’ve also snuck in a Montreal-style pastrami on the menu, but you probably won’t mind. Saturday brunch comes with a la carte options.

Meet the Chef: Leo Kam is the man in charge of the kitchen. He’s worked at Gordon Ramsay’s Maze, and Nobu, both in London.

Jeng: It’s all about the artisanal details at CRFT PIT, where different types of wood (like apple, cherry or hickory) are used to give different meats and different cuts distinct flavors. The barbecue sauces and the rubs are all made in-house. And it’s not just a gimmick: chef Kam’s got the magic touch, and everything he makes is frickin’ delicious.

Not So Jeng: This is not a place that cares about a balanced diet. Veggies take a backseat, understandably.

FYI: CRFT PIT is located on the site of former winery 8th Estate. Besides conducting its own business, it also caters to restaurants across town.

This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.