Look & Feel: Secreted in Hollywood Centre, Bacchus is an elegant restaurant with the benefit of a spacious outdoor terrace. Masterminded by Minus Workshop, the interiors are a tribute to mythology, inspired by ancient Roman temples. Stepping into the restaurant, guests get sneak peeks at the wine cellars, while copper, marble, brick, and plenty of lighting and botanicals add sophisticated touches.

On the Menu: Bacchus is very much a restaurant but as its name suggests, wine is very much the focus here. Renowned wine educator and sommelier Hervé Pennequin—who also holds a the high distinction of the “Chevalier de l’order du Mérite Agricole” from the French government for his work on imparting French culture throughout the world, has developed a very robust wine program to help Hongkongers discover the unexplored depths of the wine world. From unusual grape varietals like Marselan and Rkatsiteli to unfamiliar labels from Bordeaux and Burgundy, Pennequin has curated a list of over 800 wines that are sure to thrill the city’s oenophiles.

Using the wine list as a starting point, Pennequin has worked closely with consultant chef Laurent Varachaud and executive chef Mickael Messina to create a seasonal menu that complements the wine and blends French and Asian influences. Importantly, the menu has been built to complement the wine list and not the other way around, as most restaurants do. Pennequin has created suggested wine pairings for each dish to enhance the textures and flavors for a fully decadent experience.

To kick things off, we begin with some of Bacchus’s signature appetisers. The Scampi Prawns A La Plancha and Steamed Bao ($228) is a delightfully clever pairing of eastern and western culinary influences and is thoroughly delicious; the Opera of Foie Gras with Red Wine Jelly and Joconde Sesame Biscuit ($188)—with Brioche toast and Francis Miot Fig Chutney—is a nod to the French tradition of foie gras done with serious style and nous; while the 63 Degrees Organic Egg from Mont Saint Père Farm with triple smoked salmon roe, purée foam, paprika-cashew nuts and brioche toast is an absolute symphony of flavors and textures that I would go back for in a heartbeat. We had a Boschkloof Sauvignon Blacn 2020 from South Africa to pair with the appetisers—not Pennequin’s preferred pairing, but at the time, the restaurant was still waiting for some of its wine shipments to come in—and it was certainly robust enough to stand up to the richness of the food.

For mains, we dig into the Alain Senderens’ Apicius Duck Magret “Revisited” ($688) which features honey-roast duck breast with white turnips, sautéed daikoku mushrooms, honey-peach purée and date, apple and mint relish with spiced apices sauce. Though simple in its looks, the dish expertly weaves different elements together to create a palate-pleasing complexity. The Crispy Wagyu Kiwi M9+ with White Maitake Mushroom ($598), served with French Black Truffle, potato rosace and grape must mustard beef juice was a delight (it’s cooked pretty lightly, though, so if you like your steak charred beyond recognition, this will be a little too pink for you).

Jeng: The food, the wine, the service…it’s all good at Bacchus.

Not So Jeng: Nothing to complain about here!

Great For: Date night dinners, long business lunches.

FYI: There’s a private dining room with its own terrace if you want to host an intimate dinner.

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This writeup was based on a complimentary media tasting. The Loop HK doesn’t guarantee/sell restaurant review coverage. See our editorial policy here.